Trip 31 – NC500 – Scotland – Pt4

Monday 9th May (Day 22)
A really bright sunny day in prospect but a cloudy start. We caught a bus into the city again and started by walking towards Holyrood Palace and the Scottish Parliament. We paid and entered the palace and spent a couple of hours going around it. There is a temporary – until September – extra exhibition of Royal clothing (mainly the queen’s) from 1930 to now. Even for me it had interesting aspects. A walk around the gardens before a slow walk back up the hill towards the castle. On way we went into a couple of museums which were free and detailed life in the Canongate area of Edinburgh. The next bit of culture was a 400 year building with rooms set back in that time. Free entry for us National Trust Scotland members! Again it was interesting, such security aspects as steps of differing heights so if someone crept up the stairs they were likely to stumble or make a noise. A stroll back to the shopping area for a late lunch in a pub before going to a Georgian House (free – National Trust again). This was a complete house set out as it was in 1760 when the first owner moved in. It gave a good insight into how life was back then. Eventually, totally cultured out and foot weary, we were on a bus back to Musselburgh which took an hour due to the rush hour traffic. The view with the sun out was even better than yesterday although a stiff breeze made it cooler than it looked.
PHOTO: Edinburgh in general

Tuesday 10th May (Day 23)
A short move today. After breakfast, and a quick goodbye to our Scottish Motorhome Wild Camping Facebook Group neighbour, we left for about an hours drive to the  Holy Island or Lindisfarne. Having parked up just outside the village we walked into the it along with a lot of other people.  We first visited the Priory. To enter it was over £5 each and you could see in from the surrounding church area all that you really need to, so we kept the money in our pocket! This was followed by a walk to the castle. A National Trust site (free entry for us again)! It is a small homely castle but, again if paying, it maybe not worth it, especially as they are renovating some of it. We then bought some fresh crab sandwiches and made a cup of tea in the MH to go with them. We then had to scoot along quickly to our next stop,  Seahouses, a journey of about 40 minutes. We wanted to go on a boat trip which started at 2.00pm.  By 1.40pm we were there but seeking somewhere to park. Double yellow lines and, as we are in England Who Hate Motorhomes, height barriers on car parks. After sone backstreet six-point turns we found a carpark for coaches and so parked up. By the time we got to the harbour we only had a few minutes to spare. We bought tickets for a two and a half hour visit to the Farne Islands – inner and outer. Also we were going to land on the Inner Farne Island for an hour. These islands are where Grace Darling lived and worked. We saw the old house / lighthouse she lived in and the lighthouse she worked in with her father from where she saved the seamen of the stricken ship. (More of that ‘daring do’ tomorrow.) The other point of the trip was to see the wild life – seals and birds. We saw them  by the thousand. Puffins, Guillemots, Arctic Terns,  Eider, Sandwich Terns, Common Tern, Kittiwake, Cormorant, Razorbills and Shags! We even saw them building nests, sitting on eggs on nests and sitting on eggs in a burrow (puffins do that).  The noise from the birds and the smell of the guano was quite noticeable. Also on the island is a small church dedicated to St Cuthbert, a religious man who lived on Lindisfarne and also on this island (alone for 9 years) until he died in 687AD. That would have been really a hard tough existence. Back on the boat and off to our overnight stop which we had not actually selected. Shortly after leaving we saw a Camping and Caravanning Club Site and decided to stop here so we could return to Bamburgh where the Grace Darling museum is. It has just been refurbished. We set up and sat outside the van (a first since we left on this trip) to enjoy the end of the day’s sunshine, before a stroll to the local hostelry and then a meal in the MH.
PHOTO: Grace Darings ‘house’; Seals and Birds

Wednesday 11th May (Day 24)
A great nights rest. Our first journey of the day was back northwards a short way to Bamburgh and the Grace Darling Museum. Grace Darling was born in Bamburgh and lived with her family on the Farne Islands where they worked the lighthouse. Inn 1838 a ship called the Forfarshire foundered in a storm and was wrecked Harcar island. The ship broke in half and 64 passengers and crew died. Four others escaped in a life raft and were rescued  later and nine scrambled on the island. Grace and her dad who saw the events unfold from Longstone Lighthouse left the safety of it in the teeth of a storm and rowed across to rescue nine people trapped on the island and in extreme danger. It took two trips to rescue them. Grace Darling was awarded the RNLI Gold medal and became a national heroine. Her celebrity status was short lived, however, as four years later she died of consumption – although the exact cause of death is not quite certain. The museum was interesting, despite a hoard of school children being there. We then drove off and out next stop was lunch in Richmond. A town with a castle and museum (but we are feeling ‘cultured out’ so we didn’t visit them). We had a light lunch and then continued on to visit some good friends at Rotherham (just outside as our friends remind us). Dinner was a nice visit to a local hostelry before a (few) night caps.
Thursday 12th May (Day 25)
Well after a good nights sleep we got our second ‘big boys breakfast’ since we left home, this time cooked by our hosts. Smashing. The weather was looking to be great so we decided on a trip to Derbyshire and Castleton – home of Blue John cave etc. We opted for a stroll around the village and a mooch in the shops and then a lunch time drink. We then drove a short distance to Eyam. This is a village that in 1665 developed the plague as a tailor bought a roll of fabric from London which arrived damp and, in drying it out by a fire, he activated the plague virus. The village voluntarily cut itself off from the surrounds, and of the 350 residents 250 died over the following months of the plague. Food was delivered at an agreed location for them and paid for by the locals by cash left in holes in a rock filled with vinegar to kill off any of the virus. A very sad interesting place. We then drove back to Rotherham and sat outside a pub in the sunshine while our friends and their son / wife looked at a house they had bought. Then off again to another pub (we have been led astray by these friends) for a meal – six of us with drinks less than £40!

Friday 13th May (Day 26)
So up prompt, breakfast eaten, followed by goodbyes. Then off home. A pretty good journey apart from the last part (Junction 25 to 26 of M25 virtually closed to clockwise traffic). A quick detour through Waltham Cross and home with a 15 minute delay. So 2200 miles completed at an average of 29 mpg which with the mountains in Scotland I was pleased with. Empty the MH of moths and food etc followed by the cleaning routine, and then………. Bang! One of the air suspension bags exploded! It was deafening. So one more night in MH was needed. We had dinner at home and then set of – for Warrington a 400 mile round trip. We stopped at a pub in Leicestershire – The Thatched Inn at Markfeld which was lively for a small village pub.

Saturday 14th May (Day 27)
Before 8.00am we had eaten breakfast and were off for the last leg to Warrington and by 10.30am the repair had been made and we were on our return journey. Home by 2.45pm so a good run. Phew!

Trip 31 – NC500 – Scotland – Pt3

Monday 2nd May (Day 15)
We had torrential rain during the night and it continued when we got up so we decided on a slow start – and a ‘Big Boys Breakfast’. By just after 10.00am we left for the trip to Applecross over the much talked about Bealach Na Ba road. Before we got to this point we had to slow a couple of times to allow a deer to cross in front of us. Soon we were at the start of the Bealach Na Ba; this is about ten miles of single track road with a few hairpin bends over the mountains and the inevitable passing places. A great drive with views to die for and, with the rain last night, waterfalls galore and racing streams / rivers. Some individuals have been seeking views to ban motorhomes making this crossing (sad persons); it was an easy drive with much to be enjoyed, if slightly over-hyped. Having got to Applecross we decided to use the local campsite and not ‘wild’ camp.  This enabled us to (a) charge up all our many gadgets fully and (b) get some washing done. We parked up and I got out to connect up to the electrical \ supply only to find four deer were less than 75 feet away just grazing. Having settled in we went for a walk along the shore, until it started to rain, albeit lightly. We returned to Applecross and sought refuge in the Applecross Inn where we intend to eat tonight. After a pint of beer and a chat the sun came out and we left and walked in the opposite direction to our first aborted walk, about a mile and a half to a shop. It was open, which in a little village on a Bank Holiday was a surprise. We wanted some beef for a slow cooked meal. Unfortunately all the meat was frozen and they had no beef so we left empty handed. We then walked back to the MH along the ‘Archeological Trail’; a pleasant walk which took us through a wood of pine trees with barks so black; the like of which I have never seen before. We eventually got back about 5.00pm and just made it before the heavens opened. As planned (and many people recommended) we walked to the local pub to eat. It was buzzing. An exceptionally good meal was had at a reasonable price and we were not disappointed. A walk backup the hill and the catch up of a box set recommenced before we turned in for the night.
PHOTO: Bealch Na Ba X 2; Deer at site

Tuesday 3rd May (Day 16)
A windy wet night. The morning broke with the threat of sun / rain. After breakfast we sorted the MH out with filling / emptying and then made our way off. We started going around the north coast line before travelling back, partway, along yesterday’s route. After a stop for coffee we continued on towards the Isle of Skye. A quiet stop for lunch was enjoyed before going over the bridge and stopping for some provisions and gas. The weather could not make its mind up. We stopped near the Cuillins Mountains close to Sligachan. Having parked up we took a gentle stroll along some footpaths towards the Cuillins. Back in the van and our next stop was Portree, the capital of Skye. The ‘old white houses along the harbour’ as mentioned in our guide (which was old in itself) were pink, blue, magnolia but very few white. A short stop and we drove off to the ‘Old Man of Storr’ where we left the MH and walked about 1.5 miles up, mostly, a 1:2 gradient to the rock formation under the Storr itself; our legs really knew we had walked it. Having got there the weather decided to have some fun and the wind and rain started; so a damp return journey. Having got back the main, small, car park we found it was almost empty so we decided this was to be our stop for the night.
PHOTO: Portree; Old Man of Storr

Wednesday 4th May (Day 17)
Rock and Roll! Well that is what we did all night. We stayed in the car park of the Old Man of Storr. It was fairly tucked out of the way but the storm that raged found all nooks and crannies, and along with torrential rain it meant a somewhat disturbed sleep. Morning dawned and we were awoken at about 7.30am by three people in a car, closing the doors, that decided to park right next to us. They were going for a walk – the rain and wind had not abated, madness! After breakfast we decided it was a driving / indoor day as the weather looked as it would not change. (To make matters worse Chris Evans on Radio 2 was telling us how ‘down south’ the sun was out and would be so at least to the weekend and be hotter than Ibiza!) We drove up the coast and stopped twice, once at Mealt Falls where there is a deep gorge and a waterfall (well two). The second was at Kilt Rock where the river cascaded over the cliff into the sea. We then drove past Flora MacDonalds cottage – now a hotel and our next stop was at the Skye Heritage Museum. A group of cottages made out as they would have been a long time ago; a smithy, a byre, a crofter’s cottage etc. While interesting, we had to run from one to the next as the wind and rain had intensified.  We continued to Uig where we had a cup of tea (the best since we have been away) in ‘Ella’s Cafe’. A strange place with 1930 to 1950 music playing and a second hand shop within it. Next was an ‘inside’ visit as we drove to Dunvegan Castle. The history of this castle goes back to the Vikings and around 1200AD. An interesting stroll around the various rooms before we ventured out to the gardens. Even at this time of the season it was pretty, but with the promise of much more. By now we decided to find a sheltered spot for the night. This led us to the Fairy Pools near Glenbrittle. We stopped at the car park and had a very wet walk to the Fairy Pools. The waterfalls were spectacular and the force of the water impressive. Some of the stepping stones were being lost under the rising water and, indeed, on the return journey it was worse. We got back the wettest we have been, soaked shoes, socks, trousers and over trousers. We got sorted and drove about half a mile to a small area we had spotted that was sheltered by the trees for the night which e shared with some sheep.
PHOTO: Water fall; Dunvegan Castle Castle; Commando Memorial

Thursday 5th May (Day 18)
A great sheltered spot = really good nights sleep. After breakfast we made our way to Broadford to get diesel before catching a ferry to Mallaig. Unfortunately the ferries were cancelled for the rest of the day due to the (very) strong winds. After filling with diesel we drove over the Skye bridge and along a very scenic route, stopping at Castle Eileen Donach for a walk. (The Isle of Skye is a great place, even with the naff weather). It is unfortunate that it has the collection of the National Collection Of Potholes And Poorly Repaired Roads.) A further drive and a stop for lunch and then a main stop at the base of Ben Nevis, where we took the cable car to the top. The views were spectacular but, due to the wind, it was hard to even stand up. A walk along to a viewpoint then back for a coffee to warm us up. A second fifteen minute cable car journey saw us back at the bottom. We then drove about 20 miles to Glenfinnan (the ‘Harry Potter’ viaduct is here). The Glenfinnan monument, not sure what to, is covered in scaffolding so we gave it a miss. We did walk up the hill to get a view of the viaduct before following another circular 3 mile route to give us different views of the viaduct, returning (via a hotel and a beer) to cook the evening meal. A game of Scrabble followed which, while they both were won by me, we’re very close with only a couple of points between us each game.
PHOTO: Ben Nevis; Potter viaduct

Friday 6th May (Day 19)
The day started with a major clean inside and a sort out in general. Despite this we were still on the road by 10.15am in glorious sunshine. We had a loose plan of where to go and our first main stop was Cruachan (The Hollow Mountain). Before that we had a couple of stops for walks to waterfalls, or abortive visits to a ‘Superstore’. (The sign said superstore; the road went nowhere. Literally!) By lunchtime we were at Cruachan, at the head of Loch Awe. This is a hydro-electric plant that is unique in the world. It stores water a kilometre up and, during high demand, the water comes down a 15 foot diameter pipes to drive the turbines. During low demand (and cheap rate) the water is pumped back up. (Yes I know some Welsh will say ‘hang on we have one of those systems’. However, the Welsh one has separate pumps to return the water to the top. So more infrastructure, cost, maintenance etc. The Scottish one uses the same turbines to return the water up that generate the power, unique in the world.) The water coming down hits the turbines at 30 tonnes per square inch. I should stop now as the figures while impressive, and I find interesting, will bore others. To get to the turbines, a bus took us a kilometre into the mountain, which is solid black granite. It took 6 years to build. The guide was informative and humorous and the tour ended all too soon. By now our plan had changed and we were going more direct to Falkirk. Another stop or two to stretch our legs before stopping at the village of Fintry and a pub where we had home cooked food and home brewed beer; delicious. The locals also made us feel most welcome. A pleasant quiet evening followed before retiring to rest.

Saturday 7th May (Day 20)
A quiet night saw us wake to a bright day. After breakfast and a partial fill of water we left for Falkirk. The first part of the journey were along the worse roads we have encountered for a long time – just poorly repaired. After just over an hour we parked at the Kelpies. (Kelpies are mythical water creatures that come out and take the formed either a man or horse and wait for an adult to come along. They then grasp then jump back into the water and the person is never seen again.) Anyway a walk around them and then we left before a publicity thing for the SDP with Nicola Sturgeon started. Another short drive to our stopover location for the night – the Falkirk Wheel. (£10 for the night with toilets and showers and 10% of the boat ride.) The boat ride was first. The wheel lifts boats 35m up from one level to the next and is unique ion the world. The boat ride was less than unique travelling at slower than walking pace; had to be done though. Back for lunch before we took the bikes off for a ride along the canal into Falkirk. Yes after carrying the bikes almost 1700 miles we now have the weather and reasonably flat surfaces to use them. However, without wishing to upset Falkirkians the centre was not very ‘wow’ or even ‘look at that’; but perhaps we missed the best bits. A ride back for a cup of tea was the order of the day. We then went for a walk along along the canal which turned out to be. A pleasant circular walk. We next just had a rest in the MH followed  by dinner. A bit of tv before we cycled the 4+ miles along the canal to the Kelpies to see them lit up. We were told it would be about 9.00pm so we timed it to be there around 9.10pm. Shame the things didn’t turn on until 10.20pm! A bit of a wait. It was worth it though as they take on a different aspect lit in the dark. We cycled back stopping at a canal side pub for a ‘livener’. Quite an experience with many 60+ people and a ‘dj’ singing 60”s hits. Back to the MH by around 11.30 having walked eight or so miles and cycled 15.
PHOTO: Falkirk Wheel; Kelpies

Sunday 8th May (Day 21)
We got up prompt; walked down to the Wheel as we had access to showers – really nice with well heated rooms A good start. We filled up with fresh water and went to I give our key in)for the loo, showers and access gates (only to find the office was closed until 10.00am so our prompt away was a bit frustrated. By soon after that we were off as today we intended to visit Edinburgh. A drive of just over an hour before parking overlooking the sea at Musselburgh. Then a short two minute walk and a bus into the city. Great overnight spot and easy in to city. After getting some info and a map we walked around towards the Royal Mile and made our way slowly towards the castle.Entry paid and we spent about three hours in the castle which was really interesting. Back out and a visit to the cathedral made even nicer with some people playing flutes which was quite haunting in the vast space of the cathedral. Time was getting on so a stroll around the shopping area, away from the big stores, then a pleasant pint sitting outside a pub people watching and talking to a local couple. It was staring to cool down so the journey back was our next option and by 6.00pm we were back in Musselburgh. Our first stop was a pint before cooking a nice steak dinner. Then sit and watch the view of the sea and bay before a bit more to then bed.
PHOTO: Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace

Trip 31 – NC500 – Scotland – Pt2

Monday 25th April (Day 8)
Another day of ‘interestIng’ weather; snow, sleet, sunshine we had it all. You could see what was coming next as it climbed over the hill and raced across the Firth. After breakfast we walked along the beach to Chanory Point to watch the dolphins. As the tide rushes into the fish come in with it (it tackles less effort to go with the flow).The Dolphins know this and so wait for the fish to swim to them.This results in the Dolphins having a good nosh up less than 20mFrom the beach. Quite a spectacle. Back to the MH to set the evening beef bourginon on. We then went for a walk up the; Fairy Glen’ a short walk up a stream with a couple of waterfalls at the top. After lunch we were going to walk along the beach to Fortrose. The best plans of man! A knock on the door was a neighbour informing us that we had a flat tyre. It just shows how fortune smiles up on people. It was only three weeks ago we Worked out how we could take a spare tyre with us.Without that the recovery people would not have attended. Within 20 minutes the AA were with us sorting us out – brilliant. This then meant we had to drive into Inverness to sort the flat tyre out. We thought we might need a new tyre (it was only three months old). However, the problem was with the valve a cheaper option (we thought). It then transpired that it was a problem with the rim itself. To resolve this we needed a new rim – and we couldn’t get one until tomorrow. We drove back to the site via Cromarty to see the oil rigs which, while huge, didn’t look it out on the bay. When we got back to the site we needed a drink so we went to the golf club next door. This is the 15th oldest club in the country. More than that Colonel Bogey (the tune) was inspired here and written by Kenneth Alsop (a pseudonym). He was a and master of the Army based across the firth. An interesting, eventful day.
PHOTO: Dolphins

Tuesday 26th April (Day 9)
A wild night but the morning was quieter. After emptying and filling we left the site to return to Inverness to pick up the new rim for the spare tyre. By just after 11.00am we were off again north towards Wick. The weather we experienced was amazing – sunshine, sleet, rain and snow within less than an hour – with this to be repeated. We stopped partway for a shop and a cooked lunch before arriving at Wick harbour and settling in for the night. We went for a walk around the town. Which is not much to shout about- before returning to the MH. The harbour iOS quite a busy area with many cars arriving and leaving from the chippie opposite. So much we had to try it,which proved to be a good decision. Then we say in the warmth and dry chatting and watching some tv.
PHOTO: Harbour, and Lowrys steps

Wednesday 27th April (Day 10)
A bright start to the day. After breakfast we went for a stroll to the Wick Heritage Museum that many people have recommended to us. It had only just opened and the three ladies volunteering and running the museum were about 200 years of age in total, I would guess. One lady showed us around pointing out notable things in the museum and then left us to it. We spent a good two hours just strolling around looking at the exhibits which are, loosely, grouped into three areas (town life; rural life; and fishing). A stroll back for lunch was next and, as we settled in, the hail hailed like hail rarely hails! We then drove up to the local distillery for a tour ……. in sunshine. The Pulteney distillery has a long history and this year won the ‘best malt of the world’. Our decision was then to move on and so we did. Our first stop was at the Stacks of Duncansby. This was at the end of single track road from John O’Groats. Having parked up we walked over the cliffs to see the ‘stacks’. These are tall pillars of rock just off the coast line. They are inhabited by gulls, puffins and, well perhaps guillemots, stuas or something. We were lucky to see a puffin as it is a bit early In the year for them. We briefly stopped at John O’Groats before moving off to Dunnett Head, the most northerly point of the British Isles mainland. It was then a short drive to the Castle Hotel to use their car park for the night.
PHOTOS:Puffin; stacks of Duncansby; Dunned head; John O’Groats

Thursday 28th April (Day 11)
A good start to the day with blue skies. After breakfast we made a slow departure and headed west along the A838. We stopped in Thurso – the most northern town in the UK. A short shopping trip and walk around the town before makIng our way onwards towards Durness. We stopped along the route, and had some great sea views while eating lunch, before moving on again. The scenery is stunning with sandy bays, Dartmoor type landscapes, mountains – some snow covered, and every turns bringing something new. The road, bearing it was an ‘A’ road, was amazing. Fifty odd miles of mainly single track roads with passing places. Add into that sheep, some that refused to move, and it was an experience. We eventually stopped at a camp site right on the beach which, despite the deteriorating weather, was great. Sango Sands Oasis about a mile from Smoo Cave. Well set out site with excellent facilities. It enabled us to get all the washing done and dried to set us up for some more wild camping. We have come to the opinion that the locals who are living in such remote locations are of a mindset very different from us. It also made us think how our view of life in a busy area is so different from 100 years ago or now. We moan about a four hour wait at A&E. Here it would take most of that to reach an A&E. 100 years ago how even more removed such expectations would have been.  A good curry and DVD was the order before retiring. I will state that the residents must be a hardy bunch living so remote. If you had a stroke or heart attack you would certainly be dead before a neighbour arrived yet alone an ambulance – too remote for me.
PHOTO: A838

Friday 29th April (Day 12)
The day promised to be really nice (and was). Bright sunshine. After getting sorted, filling water etc we left for the one mile trip to Smoo Cave. This was to be an minor error. As we pulled out from the camp site and drove down the road a motorhome (a Cathargo) was coming towards us. He clearly liked our side of the road being 12 to 18 inches out from the kerb and he had mirror out like Gary Linekers ears so a clash of mirrors was inevitable and he kept going – leaving us with a damaged mirror – hooray for Duck Tape. We stopped at Smoo Cave coach park and walked down to the cave. The entrance is about 15m high and impressive. Once inside there was a small bridge to take you into second cave with an 80 foot waterfall. Then Colin arrived (more about him later). He is the boatman / guide. For £4 each we donned a hard hat; walked to the second cave with the waterfall, clambered down some wooden steps into a large rubber boat and crossed the water to a third cave. The floor of this cave was almost completely covered in water (a small river) but Colin had made planks supported by other pieces of wood so we could keep our feet dry. He then told us quite a bit about the cave, it’s history and rocks in general. Now to Colin; he is the sort of bloke that if you were in a pub and he had a drink or three could bore the pants off the average person as his knowledge of caves, rock, geology and the like is clearly impressive. On the cave visit the information he gave was not over the top but just about right. He is also slowly digging out shale, rock etc which he believes leads to another bigger cave good luck to him as he has spent years on this. Off we toddled then to the ‘John Lennon Memorial Garden’ (I kid you not). Quite an underwhelming experience. By now it was nearly lunch time but we drove some 10 or so miles to get a nice spot with a view to have lunch – it was overlooking a sea inlet. We left the A838 – remember a single track ‘A’ road – to join the A801 which was the same. At the end of this road was Blairmore where we parked and then walked 5 miles across beautiful countryside to Sandwood Bay. Walking or a boat are the only way of getting here. It is a wide sweeping bay with pinkish sand and Atlantic rollers crashing onto the beach with punk hued sand and rocks surrounded by cliffs and the rolling hills; again stunning. However, we now had the 5 mile (90+ minute) walk back! Eventually, foot sore and weary we arrived back and then drove in the brilliant sunshine to Kylesku where we stopped just before the bridge and wild camped for the night. The location we stopped at had a memorial to the men who fought in WW2 using X-craft and human torpedoes. They trained in the waters around here. X-crafts were four man mini subs that crept into enemy ports and attached mines to ship hulls. Human torpedoes were two man torpedo shaped machines ridden by men in wet suits and could get into shallower places than the X-crafts.

Saturday 30th April (Day 13)
After a great sleep we made tracks towards Ullapool via the scenic route. Another day of, mainly single track roads with spectacular views. A bit of shopping in little stores on the way before the major town of Ullapool, and it was market day. It was, however, a tiny market. A purchase from the butchers and a nice sausage in a French baguette before moving off. The weather is most changeable one minute bright sunshine then really heavy rain. Each time we left the MH it was dry though! We stopped at Corrieshalloch Gorge (a Scottish NT site) and had a walk to a deep 200 foot gorge with a waterfall. A nice bit of exercise. English H&S would have a fir though with a 200 foot drop from a path where you are protected by a log with a notice informing you of bad things that might happen to you if you fall. Then off to find a stop for the night which we did, perched on a cliff top just before Poolewe (pronounced pooloo). Not sure that is a good move as strong winds are forecast; we shall see.
PHOTO: Gorge

Sunday 1st May (Day 14)
We rocked and rolled in the wind which just seemed to increase evermore. The roof vents started to rattle and sleep was all but impossible. Just before 6.00am we got dressed and drove about 8 miles to a more sheltered spot and settled down again. A late rise was not a surprise. After breakfast we drove to Inverewe (Inveroo) Gardens; this is 50+acres of gardens laid out by nationality and, while a good visit, would have been better in a month or two. There were herons nesting which was nice to see. This is a Scottish National Trust site and so we joined – at about 60% of the English National Trust price – a bargain, especially with fun access to English NT sites and 14 others one worldwide. After this we drove a bit out of the way to fill up with fresh water, empty the toilet and the grey waste. The final ‘sort’ was to fill with diesel. Only lpg to sort but not an imperative. We left Garloch and found a path to a waterfall which involved a 3 mile walk. A pleasing stroll – where I got near to the falls and got a bit wet as I crossed the river and slipped off the rocks. Off again with a brief stop at then ‘Victoria Falls’ – so named as Queen Victoria visited them. The weather has been glorious. We eventually stopped for the night at a pub in Torridon where a pint or two was consumed before we retired to the MH to eat and watch a DVD.
PHOTO: Waterfall and Herons

Trip 31 – NC500 – Scotland – Pt1

Monday 18th April (Day 1)
Having loaded all but fridge items yesterday it was an easy going start to our trip. As we were in no rush we, well, didn’t. After a substantial late breakfast and the usual vacuum and clean so Billy the Burglar’ won’t think us slovenly we were off by about 11.30pm. There then followed just under 200 miles to our first stop of which 190 were either dual carriageway or motorway. When the motorways are running journeys are so easy. And so it was for us. A short stop at some services for a leg stretch and coffee and then by 4.45pm we were parked in a pub car park near Warrington – the Hollybush PH. This is an old thatched pub recommended to us for a night stop. We parked up in the large car park and after a while went for a walk along the lanes, along a canal side until we looped back to the pub – a four to five mile stroll. A meal in the pub was the plan for the evening and we had been warned that the meals were large. For this reason we did not have starters and just a main course each. Our meal advisors were right and neither of us could finish the meal. Back to the van for a rest to digest the food before we turned in for the night. A chilly evening but the forecast ‘promises’ worse to come.

Tuesday 19th April (Day 2)
The day started bright with blue skies and the promise of good weather. We left by 8.30am for a 20 minute journey to AS Air Suspension who were to fit, well, air suspension, to the rear of the MH. We left the MH and they drove us into Warrington where we caught the train to Chester. Having arrived we walked the short distance into the centre and started our exploration by walking around the walls of the town. It is a lovely old town with wood faced buildings; an ornate clock (dedicated to 60 years of Queen Victoria); The oldest racecourse in the UK (The first race was held on February 9th 1539 and was for the locals to replace the violent games of football that were played there! Henry Gee was the Mayor of Chester who started this, hence horses being called ‘gee-gees’); We also visited the Cathedral which has the oldest court in the country still set up (a Consistory Court)which was established in 1541. It dealt with most things from heresay to neighbour disputes. We had lunch in a 600 year old building but it was Spanish Tapas which was divine. A short stroll around the shops and after three plus hours we returned to the station for a train back to Warrington which we nearly missed. By 4.30pm we were back at the motorhome having the workings of the suspension explained to us. This meant that our journey north was on the M6 in the rush hour. The first part was quite slow but gradually as we left ‘civilisation’ things got much better. Eventually the panorama hanged to rolling hills (some quite high) with patchwork fields as far as the eye could see made that way by dry stone walls and sheep and lambs all around. The sun was still shining. After just under two hours we pulled off the motorway to a ‘wild’ spot, Wet Sladale Reservoir which is south of Shap, but as we arrived we found quite a few cars there and noisy children (Scouts) on an orienteering evening – a bit of a bus mans holiday experience for us having been involved in scouting for over 25 years (now retired). We went for a shortwalk to make the most of the sunshine before returning to the van for a curry. A most agreeable, exceptional day. Around 10.30pm we went out to look at the stars but the moon was so bright they were difficult to see.
PHOTO: Chester  and Wetsladdle Rsvr

Wednesday 20th April (Day 3)
The idea was a prompt start to the day. We woke up at 8.40am! Not the plan. After an hour we were off and what an easy journey it was, hardly any traffic – just like being in France. By 1.30pm we were parked up in Scone Park and Ride (pronounced ‘Scoon’). It was almost empty of vehicles and we found it was well over an hour before a bus might arrive. We therefore walked down the road and caught a bus into Perth. Here we whiled away the afternoon. Out thoughts of the city, with apologies to the locals, was it was very nice but nothing to produce a ‘wow’ factor for us. It is the home of the Black Watch and we visited the Scottish National Trust Gardens overlooking the city and walked a route for art exhibits. We returned to the motorhome a bit earlier than we thought we would to drive to our sleepy spot for the night, only to find it was down a private road and we were unsure of whether to proceed. We decided to bottle it and drove off to Blairgowrie to do some food shopping for the next few days. We then reviewed where to stay and opted for a Britstop (number 819 for those on the know). We parked up and it was still so warm, at gone 7.00pm, that we went for a stroll before returning for a cooked meal and rest. We were in the middle of nowhere so a quiet night was anticipated. We didn’t allow for a farmer tilling or ploughing his field next to us under enough headlights to assist ET’s friends find the planet. Fortunately it lasted only about an hour.

Thursday 21st April (Day 4)
We were woken. In the night by an alarm on the electric panel showing a very low charge in the battery. Nothing we could do but turn the panel off and get back to sleep. Another bright sunny start to the day (and it stayed that way). We had breakfast and, as we were at a Britstop, looked in on the farm shop, hoping for some fresh meat. We were unlucky but we did find a book suitable for the friend;s 14 month daughter who we are to visit next. First off a really lovely drive across the mountain to Braemar where we stopped for an hour or so. Had a stroll around and a tea and scone – not cheap but really nice. Then a short drive, via a garage to get some distilled water for the batteries, to Balmoral Castle. We approached the entrance gates and identified ourselves and they were opened and we drove up to the castle and Estate Office with all the tourists wondering who we could be. We parked up and had a mile walk to a place called West Box. This is a place where, when the royal family are in residence, that Royalty Protection Police use as a post to secure the estate. Chris’ dad was on the Queen’s travelling staff for 30 years and spent eight to ten weeks over August, September and October at Balmoral. Indeed he missed all of Chris’ birthdays, except her 21st as she insisted he flew home. Anyway Chris’ dad died and we had permission to scatter his ashes around West Box as the family thought that fitting. A lovely warm day with daffodils in bloom and at 2.00pm the ashes were scattered. 2.00pm being the time that Chris’ brother and our three sons were informed we would scatter them. (We Told them the time in advance in case we had no phone signal. We didn’t). After we went for a stroll through the grounds for an hour before returning and having a tea in the cafe. As it was the Queens 90th Birthday we were also given a free cup cake with the Royal emblem and 90th birthday wishes. By 4.00pm we had arrived at our friends farm where we were to stay for the night (at Bridge of Gairn farm). The approach was a short, steep drive which we slid down with all four wheels locked. (Hopefully with a good run we will get backup.) We then parked up and made our welcomes before strolling around the farm, while Kirsty taught some children horse riding. After that it was a nice dinner followed by a sit and catch up on events over the intervening (many) years since we last met. Subjects both happy and sad. A glass of wine to end the day and off.
PHOTO: Balmoral, West Box and Farm

Friday 22nd April (Day 5)
A good nights sleep, ignoring the horse that spent 30 minutes trying to kick itself out of the stall. Another bright day but much cooler. After a good breakfast we decided to walk into Ballater. A small village whose patronage of HRH has made it well known. The High Street still has most shops shut due to the major flooding in December 2015. We had a stroll about and went into the main church, whose name I cannot remember! This had four stained glass windows along one side. Two were clearly quite old. The other two were much newer, one 1950’s the other 2006. This later window depicted Ballater viewed across the river and had a van on the bridge. It was paid for by the local butcher (when he died) the van was his. While not overly religious he had eyed this plain window space to be a memorial to him. He died in his early 60’s, he was unmarried and a ‘local loon’. We made enquiries about this; a loon is a young male and a ‘local loon’ is a one who was born in the area, brought up in it and lived their life in it. He was a great supporter of local charities and an all round nice guy. With no dependents he bequeathed most of his money to local charities but his butcher shop that he had owned for 40 odd years to the staff. Quite a nice man! Anyway after a coffee we opted for a circular walk back to the farm. Unfortunately the footbridge was still not in use due to the December flood. The sign informing us the bridge was not repaired from the floods, three miles back, had fallen over and we had not seen it so we had a long walk back through Ballater. After a light lunch we said our goodbyes and by 3.45pm were on our way back to Balmoral, a short 6 mile drive, to the car park there as we have decided to watch the ‘Balmoral run’ on Saturday, which Kirstine is running in her late husbands memory. Our dinner was venison burgers bought at the Ballater bucher’s shop which were delicious, before we had a quiet evening before a, hopefully, good nights sleep.
PHOTO: Ballater – Balmoral Car Park

Saturday 23rd April (Day 6)
St. George’s Day – Just saying as no-one in Scotland will. We spent a quiet night with one other MH – a rental with two French people in (dad and daughter). Anyway the day started with blue skies and no wind, then soon it was grey, windy and wet; soon to be followed by blue skies again. The weather cannot make its mind up. Anyway after a simple breakfast we walked into the Balmoral grounds as the weekend was ‘RunBalmoral’. This is an event of races for schoolchildren, disabled and adults with distances starting at 1.5k and going up to 15 miles. A steady stream of cars were arriving from 9.00am as were coaches and buses. As we approached the main arena it decided to snow and this was set for most of the rest of the morning. It was quite heavy although it didn’t settle much as the ground was wet. After a while we decided to return to the MH to have a coffee, much more preferable in the warm snug Billina, than standing out in the open. The plan was to return after lunch when we would watch Kirstine in the 10k afternoon race. This we did and she finished in a very respectable 50 minutes. We shortly after said our goodbyes and made our way to stay with Alistair and Carolyn (Graham) at Coull. We arrived in time for dinner, while doing so we saw some deer come up and jump over the garden fence run across the road and into the forest. We then sat and drank and chatted until 12.45am. Instead of walking over the road to the MH we ended up sleeping in their house.
PHOTO: Alastair View

Sunday 24th April (Day 7)
We were up around 9.00am and the fields were white with snow. We had a lazy breakfast before making our goodbyes and leaving towards Inverness,by which time the snow had, mostly, disappeared. We drove over the Tomintoul road (Tomintoul being the highest town in the area). Some steep (20%) hills later we made Inverness and we then continued on to Rosmarkie which overlooks the Moray Firth. Our stop was a Camping & Caravan Club Site. We had a really friendly welcome, parked up about 20m from the waters edge and settled in. After a bit of washing and cleaning we then went for a walk along the shore for about four miles. Then it was time for a dinner of prawns before a quiet evening in the mh.
PHOTO:  Rosemarkie Beach View, Cromarty Firth