Thursday 26th June (Day 1)
Not really day 1 as it was a late start. We finished packing and were ready to go by 3pm but decided not to leave until after rush ‘hour’. The QE11 bridge was not moving, 30 plus minutes to get over it so we delayed our leaving until 7pm. Still a queue to get over the crossing and then the M2 had issues so we diverted to the M20. All in all a good run and we were stopped in Dover with 20 or more other motorhomes by 8.45pm, depite some heavy showers on the way down. The only issue was the satnav tried to take us through a 2.3m width restriction when we had set our width at 2.8m. This must be a newly installed restriction – well I hope so. We did not follow the advice but found another way in. We parked overlooking the harbour which was quite pleasant. We then walked to Cullens Yard a very peculiar pub full of all manner of items, flags, tilleys, ships wheels, a skiff, an old bike etc. After a pint we went in search of some chips and found it in Dover Town. (Not sure when we last strolled about with ‘open’ chips and a pickled onion.) Back to the MH for, hopefully, a good sleep before our 8.45am ferry.
Friday 27th June (Day 2)
While we had a reasonable nights sleep it must be said that the rain, at least for part of the time, was torrential. (Signs of things to come?) Up by seven and after a five minute drive to the ferry port we sat waiting for loading. Despite the number of cars, lorries, coaches, caravans and motorhomes that boarded there were lots of seats and it was not a ‘rush and save a place’ crossing. A good cooked breakfast with tea and juice for £8 was also excellent. The MyFerry staff could not have been nicer. A good thing we were not in a rush as when we got to France as we were virtually last off. Our initial route planning was ‘get to Calais, get off ship and turn right’. This being our plan, such as it was we followed it and after about half and hour found a L’Eclerc (supermarket) as we had only about 50 miles of diesel. Oh the joy of France, less than £1 a litre. This was followed by a quick shop for some food and wine. We had settled on a place, vaguely on our route to stop; however as we got near the skies opened, the lightening flashed but the thunder didnt thunder. Double speed window wipers! We decided that while it was so unpleasant we might as well move a bit further along the French coast. Eventually we stopped at Dieppe with a nice seaview. First things first was a cup of tea (as the rain had continued but with the sky promising something better soon). It cleared up nicely and we had a walk along the sea front and up to the old Chateau on the hill and then back through the town centre stopping for a quick lager. Hunger was now to be sorted and so we did exactly that. After which we had a second walk through the town to the other Aire (camperstop) which while a bit further out of town was very nice, indeed probably a bit nicer than where we were. The weather now was good with the promise of a nice sunset and, hopefully, good weather tomorrow. A sample of the local red stuff followed the walk and eventually it was time to retire (go to bed).
Saturday 28th June (Day 3)
Well a good nights rest was had (the best of the three so far). While getting sorted for the day some incessant sounding of a car horn was heard. It was the notification that the baker had turned up and so we had nice fresh croissants and petit pain to eat. After breakfast we strolled into town to experience and look at the market. It was a great market with everything that you would expect and it stretched over several streets. Back to the MH and we set of for our next stop – Honfleur – another port. We had a pleasant two and a bit hour drive with a few heavy showers on the way and arrived in time for lunch. At this point I will mention the British (mainly) habit of motorhomers of …….waving to each other. I was informed that, as a motorhome owner, I would be waved at by others of this persuasion and that I would be expected to return said wave. Indeed this is a frequent occurence at home – with the usual sad ‘bastard’ exception. In France it was noticeable that most did not respond to a wave with, perhaps, the Dutch being the most receptive to this phenomenon. This whole, and new, experience of comaraderie is akin to the AA motorcyclists who used to salute (army style) as they drove passed a AA member in the late 1950’s (yes I remember it). This was discontinued in the early 1960’s due to safety concerns (the forerunner of the sad H&S ‘experts’). It is a simple and pleasant expression of ‘oneness’ that strikes a nice chord. Upon arrival we had A quite gatronomic event with pate, crab, meats and cheeses with a bit of salad (not too much) and fresh bread all washed down with a cuppa. After that we walked into Honfleur itself. A port and very pretty town. Take away the parked cars and with the close, old, houses and cobbles streets you would not be too surpised to see Athos, Porthos and D’Artangan come strolling around the corner. We walked up to the Notre Dame de Grace, a 16th century church at the top of a hill – a half mile up a one in three ‘slope’! Having said that it was worth the effort for both the view and the church. On the way back to the main town we were passed by a convoy of cars all sounding their horns as they were on way from the local church to the reception – this being a French custom. A few metres later we saw the married couple sitting with feet on the rear seat and bottoms on the boot of a small sports car which was driven around the town for all to applaud and wave to. For us the next thing was the odd drink or two in establishments around the old harbour which was required to support the local economy. It was then back for a libation and stir fry for a meal. However, even such a simple statement was not without its challenge. We had, on the advice of a friendly Frenchman, bought a box of wine (three bottles) for about, well less than £6. We could not find the tap. Eventually after taking the box apart we discovered the pouch had been put in back to front! Once sorted it did prove to be a bargain. After a drink or two and the meal we went for another walk around the waterfront ‘cos we could’! I must say that life really does not get much better.
Sunday 29th June (Day 4)
Some rain during the night and then some heavy rain when we got up. Got the bread from the Fench baker who came in his car to serve the 100-plus MH;’s and after breakfast we sat and watched the rain. Both previous mornings had started with various degrees of rain and then cleared up so we decided to sit it out. By late morning, sure enough, it brightened up so we decided to stay where we are.We got the bikes off the MH and set off for, who knows where. We followed a cycle path and then a road along the coast and saw some nice views. Part way found an old church open and still in use but, apart for some old lighting, it probably hadn’t changed for centuries. It was only about 20m from door to alter. On the pillars were very old and faded religious paintings. It was an interesting find. We found nearby a map on a wall and decided to try a circular route that was marked. However, we soon found that it involved cycling along a sandy beach – and the tide was in so we had to retrace our steps. The agreed way forward was to go back the way we came and this we did. At one point Honfleur was either left (the way we had already cycled) or right. Off to the right we went and cycled up a hill for over a mile and a half. Well what comes up must come down and we had a nice coast into town. The sky was blue, the sun shining and it was quite warm so by now we were hungry and thirsty. We left the bikes and walked around the dock to a creperie for a gallette complet with a cider to wash it down. (A gallette complet is a savoury pancake filled with ham cheese and a fried egg.) It was deleicious. Back the MH to telephone the Post Office as our Euro creidt card was blocked – my fault. Once that was sorted we returned on foot to Honfleur got some cash and sat and people watched. Back once again to the MH and we sat and basked and dozed in the glorious sunshine until we were hungry again. After a nice tea of cold meats, cheese and bread we resumed watching the comings and goings of people in the late evening sunshine until it turned a bit chilly and we retired inside. Honfleur is a delightful town and the aire well situated and at £8 per night with electrics, a bargain. Tomorrow though it is time to move on and it is likely to be an aire at Fougere which was recommended by some English people that we met on the aire.
Monday 30th June (Day 5)
After another good rest; we had decided to move on and take some advice of some English people we met who recommended a site a Fougeres, about 130 miles away. After breakfast off we went. We stopped for some basic food at a supermarket that we needed and then after just over two hours of driving we were not happy with some of the location signs we saw so we checked the satnav to find we were now, after 90 minutes of driving only 150 miles away from our destination or 20 miles futher than out start position! A lesson learned (my fault) in that the coordinaes for France are in Westings and Northings and not Eastings and Northings. So a decision was to be had. Drive longer to our intended stop or change our destination. We stopped for luch to view our options and decided to get back on track and go for our intended stop. Eventully we arrived and found a pleasant, nice and free stopover, This has entailed a journey of about 200 miles instead of 130. We set up quickly and walked into town to find Fougeres to be a delightful, small, town with a chataeu, ramparts, a great church, pretty squares and gardens with fountains, in short a great stop. To top this Chris found a clothes shop with some lovely tops for under £10. We then had a beer in a town square and returned to the MH for a great meal of tartiflettes (potato with bacon) and horse (sorry the those who may not like the thought of this). However, it was a grand meal, especially with hot bread rolls. Our main issue so far has been our inability to access the internet, something we will need to address with our intention of further European travel, as even simple things like checking the weather to decide our next destination are near impossible. We sat around and chatted the day and trips highs and lows and were forced to have a small drink. We decidei to roud the night off with the last of the (not too good) shortbread – we known how to live. Somehow the Tupperware container decided to bite me and I lost half of a nail – who can I sue? Where are the emails telling me of the money I can claim in an accident when I need them?
Tuesday 1st July (Day 6)
A busy day today of up and downs as you shall read. As usual we had rain during the night but a nice bright start. My first task was to get some bread. While this is normal today it involved walking from the place we stayed up to the town. A ten minute walk up hill and about seven down with the bread. After breakfast we decidied to have another look around Fougeres and follow the tourist circuit. This invovled going up hill and down dale for well over an hour and a half but was a good walk and interesting. The highlight at least for me was as we were walking along a path in a public garden Chris let out a scream, jumped and screamed again. It appeared she had been ‘nipped’ by a snake. With no thought for self I leaped into action and shot the snake – with the camera. Chris was ok and had no ill effects – my photo could have been used by the hospital if required (see not so daft)! Back eventually to the MH where we applied the MH maxim of’if you can empty your loo, your ‘grey water’ and fill up with fresh water or any of the three do it as you never know when you will be able to next’. Then it was off to a stop near Mont St Michel. The satnav informed us we were at our destination after about 50 minutes of travelling but we were still 25 miles from Mont St Michel. It is now one all in miss programming the satnav but at least this time the ‘destination’ was in the right direction. Off we go again to be told we have reached our destination………. nope it wasn’t here and we never found it but we found another place to stop which although a bit dearer was good. We set up near some English people who then left. The only other English speakers (from Ayrshire) also left although not before we talked to them for over an hour. Next off on our bikes to the Mont itself. Here again everything was up steep paths and steps (and down). We paid to go into the Abbey situated at the summit of the Mont (more steps) as it has been over twenty years since we last came to this place and with two children didn’t pay to go in due to cost. Well although only about £7 each we should have given it a miss as it was not really that aweinspiring. A stop on the way down from the abbey for a cider, with a view, at a bar and then back to the MH. By now we were quite foot weary and tired. First we roughly planned the next few days and then as this was the first really warm evening we had a nice BBQ and sat out. We then, having not had enough punishment, went for a walk along the river. Even at 10pm it was not too cold to sit out. Hopefully the weather has now changed for the better.
Wednesday 2nd July (Day 7)
Today strated with blue skies and the promise of a hot day. After I had got the bread we had breakfast and, having yesterday discussed at length our intentions for the next few days, packed, filled with water (and emptied) and set off. It was only an 80 mile drive to a beach site at Plouha. We arrived without incident and found a most delightful site in a cove, looking out to sea with a couple of restaurants. There was space according to our guide for 20 MH’s and we parked up and made it 21. The French are obviously not an anal as some English sites and three more MH’s arrived after us and stayed (indeed later on two more arrived). To be fair there was room for probably 27 or 28. Anyway continuing the up and down theme we decided to go for a walk along the cliffs. Lots of ups and downs to be had in mid to high 20C temperatures. The sea was the sort of colour you see in films; blues and greens of many hues really lovely to see. We returned thirsty and tired after about two hours walking and had a coffee sitting out in the glorious sunshine thinking how fortunate we are. This was followed by a walk to the sea; the beach was only 50m from the MH but the sea was a further 200m due to it being low tide. Chris tried the sea but declared it ‘probably ok once you were in’. That was enough for me to decide to stay out. We then lazed on the beach for a couple of hours and returned to the MH for a tea followed by a game of boules (2 – 0 to me so far). We then washed the days grime off and changed out of swimwear and walked to the creperie where we had a complet and cider (again), although for some reason this one tasted much nicer than the last. It is now nearly 8pm and lovely and hot. The sun dissapeared behind the hills (yes I know it didn’t really disappear) but still the temperature is fine to sit out have some cheese and wine and just, well, chill. We have been fortunate to find an unbelievably nice location and with good weather and company it has been a great day.