Trip 24 – Switzerland, France and Baby Time – 2

Wednesday 15th July (Day 11)
Up and a sausage and bacon baguette for breakfast which made those around us quite envious. A short cycle ride into town to get a few essentials followed and a slow return. On our way back we were passed by our neighbours on their motorbike. Chris greeted them with ‘Hello’ but in a french accent, which seemed to go down well! We then did some housework in the MH and sat around lazily, doing a bit of planning for our next destinations, until lunch. Then, with the temperature still in the 30’s, we went to the beach where we lazed about, read and swam. The sea was really only ‘cold’ due to how hot we were and it was really nice once the initial plunge had been made although as you swam around you found nice and warm bits and others like a chilly current. After leaving the beach a bit of pool time was next, followed by some steak on the BBQ. One or two items were then packed away in the relative cool to make things easier tomorrow morning

Thursday 16th July (Day 12)

During the night it was quite cool but as the morning approached it became very humid. After breakfast it was ‘all hands to the tiller’ as everything was packed away. We then showered and said our goodbyes to the neighbours. Then while I filled and emptied as necessary, Chris paid the campsite charge. By 10.30 we were off for the thirty mile trip to Arles, getting gas on the way as we were about empty. We parked up by the Rhone and walked into the town which has a coliseum, amphitheatre and much more – all at a cost. Having been spoilt last year, seeing the coliseum in Rome we decided to give it a miss and walked around the old town. It was very pleasant. We then drove about fifteen miles to a ‘port’ in Bellegarde. We walked into town and found….. well nothing really. While the aire was pleasant and overlooking a river and boats we had earmarked a possible alternative, so off again.This time just over ten miles to ‘Comps’. We parked under the trees (shade) with a breeze off the river and the sun sparkling on the water, quite idyllic. Definitely tonights stop. We strolled into the town which is really only a village with a bar (closes at 9.00pm) one small tabac, a patisserie, municipal police and the obligatory church. On the wall of the police building was a measure. If I stood by it and stretched as high as I could I could not reach the height the flood water in 2002 reached, hence why this village had a 700m long 6m high wall along the river and some serous other flood defences. We returned to the MH and sat watching the world go by before deciding on a walk along the river after dinner. A three mile jaunt, first one way then back and on the other way followed. We then sat out as the light faded and the fish came up to feed and some rather strange sounding birds in the reeds on the other bank ‘argued’ with each other. A little bit of planning for tomorrow and then some much needed rest.

Comps Aire

Friday 17th July (day 13)

Well a goodnights sleep was had. After sitting looking over the river having breakfast we sorted ourselves and moved off, using the facilities first so we were empty of waste and full of water. A pleasant 45mile ride to our first stop, a place called La Roque sur Ceze. This is a ‘hilltop’ village in the Ceze valley (La Ceze is a river). We got as far as the only car park and could go no further as the bridge had a 3.5t limit and 2.1m width. We parked up and walked the town – surely little has changed in several centuries; well apart for the electricity and water, and cars, and plastic chairs at the cafes. Well quite a bit has changed I suppose but it still reeks of ‘old’. Back down the hill and along the river to find a series of waterfalls. Lots of people swimming despite the ‘no swimming’ signs AND an information board telling you how many people had died at the location. We returned to the MH, got a lunch prepared, sat and ate it by the waterfalls and then went for a swim. It was glorious (and over 40 degrees). We then drove off to our next night stop, Vallon Pont d’Arc, on the Ardeche. Loads of room on the aire so we drove to Lidl’s to get some food then drove along the Gorge De l’Ardeche; absolutelty stunning views. On our way back we stopped and walked down to the famous ‘Pont de L’Ardeche (a rock worn away by the river into a bridge) and went for swim number two of the day – still high 30’s. We returned to the aire, much busier now, as we were setting up I noticed that the fresh water cap with key in it was hanging in the hook above the fill hole; so we drove the whole day like that without losing it; lucky or what? We then changed and walked into down for something to eat. A buzzing town and an evening was spent wandering around after our meal. (10pm and still in the 30’ – a sticky night tonight.)

Saturday 18th July (Day 14)

Indeed it was a sticky night but the day started, temperature-wise not too bad, with some grey clouds threatening rain (nope, never happened). I walked into town to get some bread for a pic-nic and after breakfast we drove to one of the many (dozens) of canoe hire places. We parked up and joined the 10.30am trip. We were driven a few miles up-stream and then set off in a double canoe. By now it was hot, top 30’s. We tootled along at a leisurely pace. At four places in the first part of the river there were dams. These had gaps in them with concrete slides so the canoe could negotiate them. It was different and quite fun. At other places there were ‘rapids’, not overly rapid in the main as the river is quite low, still enjoyable especially watching others get into difficulties. (We did at one point and as I was trying to push us off another canoe came smashing into us bowling me completely over.) After a while we stopped on the shore and sat and had our pic-nic before moving off again. The scenery was really good, with the winding river, mountains on either side etc. Just before the Pont D’Arc was the best fun, for watching. We had negotiated these rapids very well but many a paddle or boat came along with no owner, or they came down backwards in the canoe. We had a good hours entertainment. Then it was off for the final leg to our pick-up point. A short drive back to the base and then a shower, which was great. Washing the sand and sweat off was good but slowly turning the temperature colder and cooling down was heavenly. We hen returned to last nights stop over and sat in the shade watching the comings and goings. We were so tired and it was so hot we did not cook dinner but purchased a couple of small quiches and had them with salad. As I finish this blog it is 10.00pm and still mid-20’s hopefully a better nights sleep will be had.

Sunday 19th July (Day 15)

Another sticky night. After a stroll for some bread we had breakfast and for once did not shower. This is because we had decided to spend a day by the Ardeche river. A short three mile drive to a (free) car park and then a 200m walk down to the riverside. Here we secured a shady spot and settled in for the day. The day then consisted of lying / sunbathing on the riverside; lying / sunbathing on a lilo on the river or, ocassionaly swimming. Some of the best chips for lunch followed by more of the same until about 3.30pm we decided to leave. Getting out of the car park proved a small issue due to unregulated, french parking. Having extricated ourselves we had selected a new stopover at a place, still on the river Ardeche, at Vogue. The co-ordinates didn’t work so we drove to the town to follow the ‘camper-car’ signs. Having arrived there were no signs. we tried inputting the street – it didn’t exist! Then Chris remembered that we had ‘Camperstop’ locations on the satnav – Hey Presto – we found it with no problem. Except the aire for 20 MHs was full of cars with people on the riverside. We abandoned the MH and went for a walk. On our return a few cars had moved and we could set up. We then waked the town and had a drink before having something to eat. Another walk in what is a very pretty town followed, then a chat with the MH neighbours (Belgiums) who spoke great English and were ‘chasing the Tour de France’. 11.30pm and 25+ degrees saw us retire to try and sleep.

Monday 20th July (Day 16)

Several lessons leant. Number 1: If loads of locals come and use the rubbish collection site next to you it may be rubbish day in the (this) morning: Number 2: if the French man in MH next to you decides to relocate in the car park it is for a reason: Number 3; get a gun so that when the refuse men arrive at 4.15am you can ‘speak’ to them to go elsewhere. What with that, and a local brain dead youth coming in and ‘donutting’ in his car (only for a few minutes or some words would have been exchanged) and the general heat led to an ‘interesting’ sleep pattern for the night. In the morning I walked into town for some bread but on Mondays the pattiserie does not open. We then decided to drive to a supermarket to get breakfast and some essentials for the day. This was soon found and we were suitable ‘filled up’ personally and the MH also with diesel, which then saw us on our way to our next stop. What a drive! We had never heard of the ‘Gorge du Bourne’, but heartedly recommend it to all. Stunning, and I mean stunning views; great villages and a great route. We stopped part way for some lunch and then moved off. Rule Number 4; ALWAYS check that anything you open gets closed before moving off. The next part of the drive had a 3.5m height maximum restriction, we are 3.00pm. When you leave the main rooflight open we are about 3.4m. For all the drive, with single carriage roads, low cliff faces and passing places I thought “How nice people were flashing me to pass’ as opposed to “You wally you have your roof light up”! The drive was spectacular and probably the best we have driven to date, made special as despite my stupidity no damage was caused. We arrived and found a delightful, free, aire in the mountains at the base of a ski lift. It was still in the 30’s when we arrived. It was a centre for paragliding and we spent several hours watching children and adults at various stages of competence attempt it, along with several others who were expert. It looked such fun it is going on my ‘bucket list’. A BBQ followed a short walk into town and then the promise of a really good nights sleep as by 10.30pm it was REALLY cool – below 20 degrees. Wehad trouble closing one of the windows; it appeared that the stay wouldnot close;a bit of ‘muscle’and window cloed BUT it was not the stay but the window was out of alignment and I have cracked it! (Subsequent enquiries reveal it is going to cost around £450!)

Lans-En-Vercours

Tuesday 21st July (Day 17)

We got up and walked into town first thing as there was a market. It comprised of five stalls; one for knitting; one for clothes; one for meat; one for veg; one for fruit so not a great deal. We bought some croissants from the patisserie and returned for some breakfast. We had decided to stay another day here as it is so nice. Our first plan (Plan A) was to walk to the top of the mountain where were parked underneath, about 1000m climb. We started off and made it almost to the top but the path stopped making it more difficult and the heat made us feel exhausted so we walked a bit parallel to the mountain shaded by the trees along a path. Two hours saw us back and ready for coffee and melon for lunch. I then opted for an hour to fly the kite while Chris lounged and did her ‘cuticles’ (?). Our next plan (Plan B) was a cycle ride. We started off by visiting the Office de Tourisme. She spoke perfect English and offered us some rides up to 40Km…… nope. We opted for a gentle ride along the mountains through a few villages. We ended up returning after less that seven miles – again the heat beat us. Straight off for a beer. Walking back to Billina we saw a rarity – a motorhome with UK plates. We stopped and chatted for well over an hour – and got some tips if we wished to visit Morocco. The weather was looking grim and we knew that thunder and lightening were on the cards. The para gliders packed up quickly and went. Leaving us to put things away and then stroll into the village for a meal (average). While there, the electric storm started (just) and the rain started also. We then walked back in the warm rain to Billina for a further liquid libation a game of Uno, continuing the ‘World Championship’ before retiring for the night with actually little rain or thunder and lightening theatrics occurring .

Top of the Mountain

Wednesday 22nd (Day 18)

A good nights rest due to the cooling of the air. After breakfast we said goodbye to the English couple we met last night and off we went. The queue for the water etc which was a daily spectacle, due to the low water pressure, we missed, hoping to sort ourselves out elsewhere. The first 12 miles was all down hill and we averaged over 99mpg. The scenery was again spectacular and even as we approached Grenoble the mountains etc were majestic. Our aim was ‘Aix-Les-Bains’ a journey of about 46 miles. After a stop at a couple of shops we arrived at the selected campsite at 12.40pm. The reception was shut from 12.30 to 2.00pm (It was 12.35)! We drove off and parked by the lake and had lunch. The site did not look great so we decided to move on nearer to Switzerland. Again a great route. An hour later saw us at our next selection – site full. A quick play with the satnav found an alternative down the road. They had room and we set up, did the washing (the main reason for the site) and walked to the lake (Lake Annecy). The water was unbelievably warm. Back to Billina for a bit of R&R. By now the skies had darkened with a storm in the offing, which duly arrived the electric storm was quite impressive. This was followed by something we had not experienced this trip so far – rain – lots of it. Again the silver lining is it is cool for sleeping. The weather for tomorrow morning is meant to be much the same but we shall see.
Thursday 23rd July (Day 19)

Blue skies greeted our late rise. We had a (small) big boys breakfast and then cycled the 5 miles to Annecy. (The route is an old railway line and there is 40Km of it, with tunnels and even our own road signs for double bends, which, given the numbers using the route and the speed of some of them is probably needed.) Annecy is at the north end of the lake and the main town / city on it. It has old buildings, narrow lanes and water everywhere and is a great place to just stroll around looking – which we did. After a couple of hours we started our cycle back stopping at a beach. Here we lazed around and swam in the Lake. (The air temperature was around 29 degrees and the water 25 degrees which was lovely.) By 4.00pm we needed some shade so we returned to Billina and went food shopping before a rest in the shade by the MH. 6.00pm and the temperature was still 20+ and nice for another cycle ride away from Annecy this time another ten miles making 20 in total for the day. The rest of the day was just lounging, having dinner and an occasional drink. Over the two days here we have made friends with a Frenchman who speaks no English and so our conversation relies on my French – interesting to say the least. He comes across as a clown (in the nicest sense); jovial; chatty and good fun. It is a shame we cannot communicate well as I am sure we three, and his wife would get on like a house on fire. We know so much about his three children and he ours; where they live, ages etc. However, the ‘conversation’ has extended much more; to wine, Spain, Portugal, Monaco and much more; he really has been a ‘jolie’ neighbour who we will miss.

Friday 24th July (Day 20)

As there was no rush to leave we had a slow start; we were still away by 10.30am. We had 60Km to our destination (about 45 miles). We had programmed in no tolls and no motorways and the satnav estimated the journey to be two hours. It took us on a lovely route crossing the motorway several times and two hours was about right. We parked up and walked into town to meet Ashley and have a chat in a bar with him to sort the weekends events. Then we returned to the MH and drove to the lake where we went for a swim for a short time before walking the couple of miles back to their house for ‘baby time’. It is ‘Paleo’ in Nyon a week long music festival that attracts big stars. This year Robbie Williams, David Guetta, Patti Boulay (?) to name but a few – and mis-spell them. This meant Nyon was awash with the unwashed. Indeed on one roundabout with a fountain there were two having a bath, the water in the fountain was one big frothy mass so it is a bit unfair to call some of them unwashed. Anyway at the flat we had nibbles with some of Ash and Hayley’s friends who dropped in on their way to Paleo. The temperature has cooled down and a large lightening storm is around with rain forecast. We chatted and had pizza before, around 11.30pm, Hayley drove us back to the MH.

Trip 24 – Switzerland, France and New Baby Time!

Sunday 5th July (Day 1)

We have four ‘rules’ for driving. 1. Never get up early; 2. Do not pay motorway tolls; 3. Do not drive for longer than four hours; and 4. Do not drive in the rush hour. Today rules one to three are smashed. Up at 4.30am and a drive to the Eurotunnel. Things start off a bit difficult as, due to demonstrations in Calais (Migrants and ferry workers), Operation Stack is in force and the M20 is shut. M2 / A2 to the tunnel but the satNav takes us to the non-motorway entrance which is closed for redevelopment so an extra five mile detour back onto the open part of the M20. No matter we arrive in good time for the 7.20am train, well with ten minutes to spare. An easy pass through checkin and off to wait for boarding. We then had a result as the tea wagon did amazing bacon rolls. We ate, loaded on the train and were soon in France. Off we went on the autoroute. All this rule breaking was to get to Switzerland Sunday evening or early Monday as our eldest son and wife from Bermuda would be in Nyon visiting another of our sons who has a three week old daughter. They would only be there the one day. Anyway within an hour or so, for some reason I was extremely tired. We swapped drivers and I had a sleep for an hour. From then on it was a quick stop and swap drivers for the rest of the day. The only other stops we made were, one for a roll and drink and two for diesel. It was a very easy drive and by 7.00pm we had driven over the mountains and were parked up in Nyon. We unloaded the things for the baby from our van and then cooked in the van before returning for some more chat. We then retired to the van for the night. The temperature during the day was in the low 30’s. During the night it barely dropped so we had a sticky night.

Monday 6th July (Day 2)

Up to a bright sunny day and by 9.40am it was 30 degrees. After breakfast we strolled in to town to meet Richard and Su (from Bermuda) who were staying at a hotel in Nyon. As we entered Switzerland via an unmanned border we also needed to sort out our pass to drive on the Swiss roads. We met Richard at the Tourist info office and enquired about getting the pass. They said the Post Office would help. As this had not been mentioned anywhere on the web I thought they were wrong so we went to the police station. They had no idea what I was talking about! They made some calls and eventually came and said we had to drive back to the border. We decided to do this tomorrow as we left; on the basis if the police had no idea what were the chances of being stopped? We walked about and soon Su was ready and we met her and returned to the Swiss son’s address. The ‘favourite’ uncle and grandparents then cooed over said new family addition. We had bought some food on the way so we had that for lunch. We then went for a walk along the lake, leaving the baby and mum to rest. Here we met up with the other grandparents who had gone for a walk earlier. We all joined forces for the walk and returned about 4.00pm. On our return we moved the MH from outside the flat Ashley lives in as we thought the concierge would object to two nights. We had found a nearby street with no parking restrictions so the van was parked there. The evening saw the nine of us in a lakeside restaurant on an open veranda having a nice meal. Afterwards we all said our goodnights and we returned to the MH for sleep. Again the temperature had not dropped and an uncomfortable night was the promise.

Tuesday 7th July (Day 3)

Another sticky hot night, although by 3.00am it was nearly reasonable. The day started at just before 8.00am for us. As I was getting up to make a cup of tea there was a loud banging on the MH. Opening the door we were met by two gendarmes who preceded to tell us that roads were for driving on and not for sleeping. I decided to agree and not mention the other vehicles around us, parked,and therefore not driving. Knowing when to argue is a strength of mine! We had to show passports and driving licences while checks were made that we were not Fifa officials trying to escape justice – well I think that may be the reason. We agreed to move in 20 minutes and were directed to the swimming pool car park where there were four bus bays we could stay in legally. I would say the gendarmes were the height of politeness. Having moved and resettled we showered and had breakfast and then walked into town to meet Richard and Su and then Hayley, her parents and Chloe. A coffee then back to their house for some last minute cuddles. By 1.30pm we were back and on our way to follow Richard and Su to Provence, France. Somehow the heat appears to have got to the head of ‘the lady in our satnav’ as she insisted on taking us to Chamonix – miles out of our way. We realised after about half an hour and then got ourselves back on course (a lesson in not being a slave to technology). We stopped for diesel and a quick shop for tea before arriving at an aire, which was also French Passion site at a palce called Grane. We set up and cooked immediately as we were very hungry. It Is still mid 20’s at 9.30pm. Our box of wine is too warm (we put it in the freezer), warm water comes out of the cold drinking tap, everything appears topsy turvy. We spoke to some others here to find that yesterday, a few miles to the south, it was over 45 degrees! We went for a walk around the site, which is a pig farm and had apricot orchards. We watched the enormous bacon sandwiches walking about and routing in the mud. It was then back and sit outside, with the now cooler red wine, enjoying the late evening warmth, gentle breeze and cicadas in the trees.
Wednesday 8th July (Day 4)
A good nights sleep was had by us both as, while not cold, it was a cooler night. We did not really awake until almost 9.00am. After breakfast we decided to go for a bike ride to get a few items from the local Intermarche (about two miles away). We decided to cycle into the town first (a bit further) before shopping. We had a stroll around the town, which was not overly remarkable. One of the streets was the main ‘river’ for when the rain was heavy which must be a frequent occurrence as many of the houses had slats to prevent the water going in.We had a coffee and then went to the supermarket. A cycle home followed and soon after we had a fruit lunch. We then, for the first time in almost two years sunbathed – resulting in a few pink almost sore bits. We also watched a buzzard or two fly past and a formation of French planes. By 3.00pm we went for a swim in the pool which was great. The water was warm but refreshing. While doing this the owner appeared and started to call. Soon a bird, a jackdaw (?) flew into the tree and she fed it; quite remarkable. After almost two hours we returned back the the MH for a drink or two and dinner. The breeze by now was almost too cold but still the temperature was in the 20’s so we cannot complain.
Thursday 9th July (Day 5)
A windy night but nice and cool. We picked up our bread and had breakfast, showered, filled up with water and by about 10.00am were off. We had selected two potential aires so that we would be near our son and daughter-in-law who are over from Bermuda and staying in a B&B in St-Laurent-Des-Arbres about 15 miles north-east of Avignon (famous for the bridge). The first was about four miles away and seemed ok and, being opposite the gendarmerie, would clearly be safe. The nearest one, about half a mile away, was at a Casino supermarket. It was right next to a busy road and, well, not nice. As it was only 1.00pm and we were not meeting said son until the evening we drove in St-Laurent-Des-Arbres (hereinafter known as St-L). It is a medieval town with quaint back streets and a musketeer carousing a woman would not be unusual. We found the ‘Office Du Tourisme; in the base of a 16th century tower, where else? Although she spoke no English we agreed that parking /sleeping in the car park opposite the ‘Marie’ (town hall) would be acceptable. That was, in fact, where we had parked. We had a coffee and decided to go for a drive into the hills. A pleasant windy picturesque route followed and we decided to go onwards to a town called Uzes. Another ‘musketeer’ location but bigger. We followed the tourist route to ‘see the sights’ but they were a bit, well, ok at best. The narrow streets, old lights, squares with cafes, and fountains were much better than the recommended places. Two hours and a drink saw us foot sore and returning to the MH – it has been in the 30’s most of the day. We then took another route back, which was again pretty,  to the Marie car park. We now have made contact with son and were directed to meet them at 7.15pm for a meal. We duly met at their B&B and got into their hire car and drove 25 minutes to La Villeneuve-les-Avignon, a town on the outskirts of Avignon itself. The owner of the B&B had reserved us a table at a restaurant called the oil mill, and it was exactly that. It was a busy restaurant but hard to find, unless you knew it was there, which I suppose is a truism. We were seated and the menu was brought to us. A blackboard about five foot tall and three foot wide. We had a great meal and good chat, putting the world to rights. Richard and Su then deposited us back at the MH. We then found that the building next to us was holding a disco! That said it was the quietest disco we have ever heard and did not disturb us. (We even did not hear them leave; well we found out the next day that they did not leave but slept in the building and was some sort of childrens ‘camp’. We were treated to a rousing  ‘Marseille’ in the morning rom them.) We had a couple of games of cards and then decided to go for a stroll around the town to see it with a different viewpoint; under street lights. The narrow alley ways, shuttered houses and the battlements took on a completely different aspect, making the gentle stroll well wothwhile. Returning to the MH we retired for the night.
Friday 10th July (Day 6)
A much cooler night and, as a consequence, a good nights sleep was had. We were due to go out with Richard and Su at 10.00am. Shortly before that he arrived to inform us that Su was unwell with a cold! As a result we would not be leaving for about an hour or so. By 11.30am we were on the road. We had obtained the itinerary for an organised tour from Avignon and decided to do it ourselves. Our first stop about 40 miles away was a medieval hilltop town of Gordes. Parking was easy and then we had a 400m walk up hill into the old town. Old windy streets were to be found and it was then the general order of the day. We had a stroll around and then had lunch at a creperie. Back to the car and off to the Abbaye Notre Dame de Sananque, a 12th Century Cistercian abbey where lavender is grown and pressed etc to fund the abbey. It was surrounded by the heady smell of lavendar with row upon row. To visit all the Abbey not only was there an entrance fee but also you had to join a tour that was only French speaking so we gave it a miss. We went into the only part we could for no fee and found it almost bare, as if they had been robbed of their finery, but that was the point of the Cisterian Order; frugality. Next a journey doen to the foothills and back up to Roussillon, the original place of the colour Ochre. The hills surrounding this small hilltop medieval town is used for the ochre dye. In addition they press oil and make fabulous chocolate. A walk around and a much needed drink was had. The temperature was in the mid 30’s. We then returned to the car and drove to Avignon (a sin the ‘Sous le pont D’Avignon’ song, which later was wrongly changed to ‘Sur le pont….’). We parked quite easily and entered the walled city; a huge wall goes all the way around. July is the month of ‘activities’. The place was bedlam. Picture the scene; 35 degrees, street tables everywhere, crowds and performers of all types – some clearly mad, other trying to be. It was like the Edinburgh Festival with sun and lunatics. It was caching as cars and motorbikes were coming and going in all directions with little regard for no entry signs, pedestrian area or well anything. We walked to the Pope’s Palace and Gardens and then made our way to a restaurant. Back to the car and a drive back to the B&B / MH by 9.00pm. The experience clearly affected us as we had an Israeli speaking man on the satnav to get us home! We were all tired but had had a good day. We decided that, as Rich and Su were going to have a ‘pool’ day tomorrow that we would move on so we said our goodbyes, until sometime next year! What is it with us and music / discos. We were sat in the MH and loud music was to be heard from a live band. A brief stroll found a group in the small market area with what looked like the whole village seated at tables. The group were good and went straight from one song intop the next. As we arrived they stopped! It was ten o’clock so we thought it was an early one. We went back to the MH and by 10.30pm they were off again, As we could hear them clearly we decided to chill in the MH and just listen. Actually ‘chill’ is not the correct word as it was still high 20’s.

Saturday 11th July (Day 7)

I went into town first thing to get some bread for breakfast and some for later in the day also. By about 10.00am we were off. First things first, stop at the nearest ‘bourne’ to empty black and grey waste and fill up with water didn’t get water as they charged and we had enough for the moment. We then had a pleasant two hour drive to the Camargue on the Med. We put the co-ords for the aire and the satnav kept trying to take us down a small one-way track – against the one-way. We eventually worked out a route but there was a 3.5t restriction in the town but the aire was down that route so on we went. We arrived at the location but still could not find the aire. Enquiries of the locals informed us it was closed. We put the second aire co-ords in and off we went. No problems to a car park outside one of the most immaculately preserved fortress / castles I have seen in a long while. The town is called Aigues Mortes, which means ‘dead water’, as it is in the middle of salt plains. The walled town was built in 1248 and was where the crusaders left for other lands. The roads inside are to a strict grid pattern. Again a great town to stroll around but we did flag in the 35 degree heat, even by keeping to the shade. We opted for a two hour boat trip along the canals. The commentary was only in French but that did not matter. At one point we all disembarked and were met by ‘gardians’ (Gauchos or cowboys they would be called elsewhere). They brought a herd of wild bulls into the field and showed us how they separated a particular bull out and removed it to another field. Clearly they were skilled horsemen and expert at this, it was impressive to see. It was then back onto the boat for the slow route home. We walked through the town back to the MH and dozed for a couple of hours in the shade. Then we had a salad meal, the only thing we could face in the heat. Meanwhile all the car parks were filling up with locals going into town for a meal. We took a stroll around the perimeter of the castle as the sun was setting and then experienced the buzz of the inner city. Also the air was filled with whistles of hundreds of swifts. An ice-cream was deserved we felt and we sat eating it ‘people watching’ before we returned for a night cap. What is it about us and music? Tonight we have a disco again, but for adults in an outdoor disco and although quite a way off it isn’t quiet, still off to a new location tomorrow!

Sunday 12th July (Day 8)

Breakfast in the shade of the MH as it is getting warm – not much beats a bacon butty! Then we packed and were off. A quick stop for some ‘essentials’ at a ‘Super U’ and then on to Saint Maries-de-la-Mer. Apparently the largest seaside town in the Camargue and the capital. An easy drive of 25 miles and then into the aire bordering the beach, this time with no hiccup. There is a free aire, well two, but the beach side one was listed as quieter and we deserved that – it was 12 euros. As you would expect a bit tight for space, especially when some nationalities had their awnings out with chairs, tables and washing. We first went for a walk in the town. As we entered we could hear music and, drawn by it, we followed the sound and watched an extravaganza of horsemanship. The control of the horse(s) was brilliant. We moved on after 20 or so minutes and climbed to the top of the church for some views over the Camargue and then went into the church itself. A very bare walled affair but with some elaborate pictures and relics. The crypt is advertised as ‘heated by votive candles’ and it surely was; it was like an oven with all the candles. The town was founded, allegedly, by be the mothers of the apostles James and John and Mary Jacobe the (an?) aunt of Jesus. They were washed ashore with other biblical figures and so the town came into existence. A walk around the town, a beer and then we returned to MH, changed into swim wear and went the 20 metres to the beach where we spent the late afternoon and early evening, getting a few ‘red bits’. Back to the MH for a shower to rid us of the sand and then into town for a meal. Chris had been after ‘Moules et Frites’ since we hit France so tonight that was the order, all washed down with a nice white wine. Afterwards we strolled around the town and watched some more fantastic horsemanship as the ‘show’ was still going on eight hours after we first watched it. We saw them end and then walked some more and experienced flamenco music and dancing, and a group playing varied pop music. It was 11.00pm by now and had cooled down to 27 degrees, so we made our way back to the MH. As stated earlier the ‘Aires’ book for France stated that, although this was a paying aire, it was quiet. Bloody Liars! As we neared the MH we heard screaming, shouting and ‘singing’ from over the fence from were we were parked. It was coming from the ‘proper’ camp site and a more caterwauling racket I have yet to hear. It forced us to have a ‘nightcap’ in the vain hope they might wish to sleep as well as us.

Monday 13th July (Day 9)

A result; things quickly went quiet and a good nights rest was had. We have decided to remain in the area, but move to a site to do some washing. By 10.00am we were off and drove nearly three miles to an ACSI recommended site – but outside of the ACSI tariff. We booked in and set up and did two machine loads which was completely dry by 1.00pm. A meal of fruit and then we then decided to go on a cycle ride into the Camargue. On the trip we saw flamingos and other water birds that, if I was an ornithologist, I would have recognised and enthused over. We had taken almost two litres of water but this proved to be insufficient. Our aim was to get to a local lighthouse but after about 6.5 miles, and two miles short, we decided to stop and make our way back. By the 10 mile stage Chris was feeling ‘off’. We had two or three stops of extended duration. Clearly a cycle ride in over 100 degrees F was a bad idea. Eventually we made it back to ‘civilisation’ and stopped in a bar where we sat for almost an hour while Chris had some food and cans of cold water. This revived her so the last one and a half miles was easy – a total of thirteen and a half miles. Upon our return we adjourned to the swimming pool which was great and really refreshing. Eventually we cooked a dinner and sat and watched the goings on around us. 9.00pm and still high 20’s.

Tuesday 14th July (Day 10)

A lazy day for today. After breakfast a bit of MH cleaning and repairing of the 12 volt vacuum. The up to the pool for some sitting in the shade and watching people. Lunch followed and, while eating bread we have been feeding the birds. One particular bird arrives, squats down, flaps it wings and demands to be fed, which another bird complies with. The bird concerned does not look particularly young and this is, to us, an unusual trait. After lunch we spent some time on the beach, still in the shade. The sea was actually quite cold so that was missed. Eventually it was back to the pool for a swim then dinner followed by sitting and resting! The weather today actually felt cooler than to date but was still around 33 degrees. We must be getting use to it.